Water is our elixir of life. We love to be by the water, the lake, the sea and to relax. Without water, nothing is created, neither humans nor nature can survive. But far out in the oceans, whole plastic islands of unimaginable size are floating, caused by us humans. Tiny micro-particles of plastic float beneath the surface of the water, invisible to our eyes and disturbing our ecological balance. Already today, scientists can prove that plastic waste caused by humans ultimately harms not only marine life, but also ourselves. The production and use of our clothing are a driving factor.

Both the cultivation of raw materials and the production of clothing consume large amounts of water. The chemicals and dyes used in the process pollute the water – often in Asia. Microplastics, which are released from plastics during the production, wearing and washing of clothing, are also problematic. Via the water cycle, they end up in the sea and from there on our table.

The most commonly used textile fibres worldwide are plastics such as polyester, polyamide, polyacrylic and nylon. Especially in the sports and outdoor sector, there often seems to be no alternative to plastic for clothing. The cheap raw material is used for clothing production to satisfy the demand for fast fashion. Plastics take hundreds of years to decompose in nature. Along the way, they absorb toxic substances, which are then released back into living creatures and have a toxic effect.

Is each and every one of us aware of this to this extent? Do we seriously want this?
We can do something by being conscious and mindful of the materials in our clothes. The first thing we can do is to check the material of our clothes and be aware of what our clothes are made of. You can find the information on the label of your clothes or online under the keyword “materials”. Keywords like “plastic-free” & “less water” or “waterless” will help you in your search to estalblish a waterfriendly lifestlye. You will probably be surprised to find plastic even in garments declared as sustainable. Plastic is mainly found in prints, glitter and sequins, buttons and coatings in rainwear. You can avoid these altogether by making a conscious consumption decision.

Incidentally, bacteria settle more quickly in plastic clothing, so you inevitably have to wash the clothes after wearing them only once, also because they smell unpleasant more quickly. This in turn uses more water. An alternative are natural fibres, which you can reuse by airing them due to their self-cleaning power, without wasting water.

If you have a high percentage of plastic in your clothes, it is good to use a Guppyfried, a wash bag that catches these microparticles. Especially during the first wash, many particles come off. It’s also good to avoid fabric softener. A full wash load can help to reduce the abrasion of microfibres.

We know from our own experience that fleece jackets and sweatpants made of organic cotton also serve their purpose. But let’s face it: for the vast majority of us, it won’t make any difference to our athletic performance if it is made out of polyester or not.

New plastic clothing in particular is a driver of microplastics. Perhaps you can reduce your consumption of new clothes and simply swap with friends or borrow clothes.

And luckily there is an alternative to plastic – natural fibres such (organic) linen & hemp as well as organic cotton. 

We have choices when it comes to our clothes and our daily behaviour. The first step is to become aware of it. It’s up to us.

#lesswater, #low-water-jeans #wattermatterz #stopmicrowaste #plasticfree #waterless


Sources: 

www.eea.europa.eu

www.blog.oeko.de

https://www.vogue.de/mode/artikel/wasserverbrauch-reduzieren#:~:text=Die%20Mode%20ist%20eine%20durstige,allem%20in%20trockenen%20Regionen%20sp%C3%BCrbar.

https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/topics/plastics/overview?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI757Op9fj-AIVo49oCR3xZgIvEAAYASABEgLaj_D_BwE

https://www.wwf.de/themen-projekte/plastik/mikroplastik

 

photo by autark.berlin

In the search for sustainable materials for the clothing industry, algae seem to be an interesting alternative to cotton, for example, because they grow highly regeneratively in seawater, for example, and require virtually no water for processing. In addition, algae substances have a vitalising effect. We have taken a look at the special features and challenges.

Algae do not belong to the genus of plants, but are heterocont. They grow in lakes and seas, e.g. in kelp forests, and have done so for about 5 to 23 million years. Seaweed (a type of algae) can grow up to 100 metres long. Algae produce a large amount of oxygen and bind enormous amounts of carbon dioxide.

Seaweed can be harvested and will grow back in 2-4 years anywhere in the world. They are therefore a valuable resource. Algae are resilient but also biodegradable. These are good conditions for circular systems. Couldn’t we use algae as fabric for our clothes?

Some companies, such as Smartfiber AG from Germany, have come up with this idea. For 15 years they have been selling SeaCell, a yarn made from algae and modal (wood-based). In addition, the company GREY Berlin offers the patented Vitadylan fabric, which contains zinc as well as algae. Both companies mainly process Icelandic brown algae.

The special thing about the algae fabric is that it is soft and breathable. The natural moisture of the skin when it is worn releases minerals, trace elements and vitamins that have an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, among other things. In summer they cool the skin and in winter they warm it particularly well. The substances are also able to bind perspiration odour. Algae activate cell regeneration and protect the skin from free radicals. A boon for the skin. This effect is already used in the cosmetics industry. The proportion of zinc dioxide in the fibres also protects the body from UVA/UVB radiation.

In contrast to conventional materials most commonly used in the clothing industry, SeaCell and Vitadylan do not contain any chemicals or other harmful substances. SeaCell has been awarded the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, among many other certifications.

The fibres are made from renewable resources. These are completely untreated and organic. The Icelandic seaweed comes from seaweed fields. There they are harvested gently and sustainably. In the process, only the upper part of the algae is removed, which allows it to sprout again. The harvested algae are then coarsely chopped, ground and evenly incorporated into the cellulose fibre. The production process uses little energy and, above all, very little water. Algae can be used in many ways, e.g. in the cosmetics industry, as food, as colour pigments.

Besides the two companies already mentioned, algiKnit from Brooklyn, New York is working on algae-based bio polymer yarns. They want to use them primarily for knitting, due to its zero-waste approach. The first implementations will be accessories such as handbags.

Several designers are already experimenting with the algae fabric (e.g. Umasan or Seaweed Fashion). There are already clothes made of algae on the market. Here in Berlin, for example, there is GREY Berlin Fashion. They make basics like leggings, underwear and T-shirts from the miracle fabric. Other suppliers include CALIDA, Speidel, Palmers, Hugo Boss and FTC Cashmere. A very nice application is the baby nappy SUMO. At Story of mine you can get homewear made from algae. 

In addition, Vivobarefoot from England produces a natural foam made from algae, which is used for the production of bath slippers, among other things. Vivobarefoot harvests the algae where they grow but would cause damage. Bathing slippers made from seaweed could already be bought at H&M.

The so-called sea-cell fibres are still very cost-intensive and not yet really established. There are extreme challenges for spinners and weavers whose machines do not provide perfect environments for processing the material. However, the examples on the market show that it is possible. Especially for allergy sufferers and people with sensitive skin, this is a blessing. We hope that more companies will work with algae-based materials.

techround.co.uk/startups/sustainable-textile-startups

www.forbes.com/sites/jenniferhicks/2018/06/15/see-how-algae-could-change-our-world

www.lilligreen.de/gruene-mode-aus-algen

www.fashion-insider.de/2695/kleidung-aus-algenfasern-neuer-trend

www.deutschlandfunkkultur.de/mode-aus-algen-die-umweltfreundliche-alternative-aus-dem.1008.de.html?dram:article_id=385287

greyberlin.de

www.fashion-insider.de/2695/kleidung-aus-algenfasern-neuer-trend

utopia.de/ratgeber/kleidung-der-zukunft-algen-milch-nesseln-plastik

presseinfos.at/powerstoff-alge-grey-fashion-mit-natuerlichen-meeresmineralien

www.greengadgets.de/2020/07/30/biobombola-algen-zuechten-und-spass-dabei

www.story-of-mine.com

For some time now, cactus leather from the company ADRIANO DI MARTI and its product desserto from Mexico has been used and celebrated in the fashion world as a sustainable alternative to leather. The founders Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez have developed a patented process for producing cactus leather.

Cacti are natural, renewable resources and part of life in Mexico. Cacti grow always and everywhere in their home region. The founders own their own cactus farm, which they can expand to 40 hectares. They work with local farmers who replant cacti on fallow land and thus regenerate the soil. Cacti are very hardy and frugal and grow where no other plants do. They are also a natural CO₂ reservoir. They are CAM plants (Crassulacean Acid Metabolism), their metabolism protects water and they do not work during the day and produce chlorophyll like most plants. The cactus absorbs CO₂ during the night, because only when the environment is fresh does the plant open its stoma and capture CO₂, produce oxygen and absorb the water present in the atmosphere, which normally comes from the morning dew. The cacti use the rainwater to grow. Only 200 litres of water are needed to grow one kilogram of cactus biomass.

To produce the catus leather, the mature leaves of the plant are cut off without damaging the plant itself. Every 6-8 months, one plant can be harvested. The leaves are dried by the sun’s energy. A powder is made from the dried cactus leaves. The cactus powder obtained is mixed with recycled polyester and applied to a cotton fabric. It takes about 3 cactus leaves to make one running metre of desserto. Waste produced during the manufacturing process is sent directly to the food industry.  So far, the vegan leather alternative is still quite expensive. In addition to local production, it is important for the founders to be able to supply small and medium-sized companies with the fabric.  

The catus leather feels light and comfortable and is breathable. It comes in various colours and structures. The durability is about ten years.

Meanwhile, the leather is also used by brands such as Miomojo or ZTUDIO 8B from Berlin, which offer handbags made of the leather. Karl Lagerfeld is one of the better-known brands. Shoes made from cactus leather are offered by CLAE from Los Angeles, for example. Clothing such as trousers are offered by DAEDWOOD from Sweden or WANKA Berlin. Last but not least, fashion products made of cactus leather could be purchased from the Swedish company H&M as part of the Innovation Science Story, which seem to have been well received by customers.

Cactus leather is a very good alternative to replace leather goods made from animals. Just like apple, pineapple or orange leather, they offer enormous potential to contribute to environmental protection and fair working conditions free of harmful substances. The impact of the leather industry on the environment and people can be read here.

The success of sustainable materials depends heavily on their acceptance by the end consumer. We hope that the vegan leather alternative will catch on. Keep it up!

desserto.com.mx

photo by ADRIANO DI MARTI

We are interessted in circular textile production processes and using „waste“ as ressources for something new. In urban spaces, like our home town Berlin, we see are lot of interessting sourcing opportunities for the production of clothes and shoes. Cities are main driver of consumption. They produce enormous amounts of waste and pollution (circular.berlin). What if, we use that waste and transform it into something good. To source and produce locally seems to be a good starting point to create a possitive impact. Sustainable production comes with the usage of natural materials or recycling of materials. By recycling plastic waste and other waste, resources can be conserved.  Let’s do a thought experiment and think about waste streams in urban spaces, which could be a sourcing opportunity for textile production. Think about plastic bottles, alt paper, coffee grounds, organ gene shells, dogs hair or used textiles.

PLASTIC

In 2019, 6.28 million tonnes of plastic waste were generated in Germany, mostly due to private housholds. By law, the recycling rate for plastic packaging should be 63% in 2022. Germany is the biggest exporteur of plastic waste in Europe. We could start to think about taking responsibility and try to make something good with that. Of course, the best way would be, to engage in zero waste initiatives and adapt our byuing behaviour. We will always consume something. For exemple unifi (REPREVE Polyester & Nylon) is using post-consumer plastic waste for the production of recycled nylon and polyester, which could be used in textile production.

ALT-PAPER

14.8 million tones alt paper were collected in Germany in 2019. The waste paper return rate lies by 78%, which is quite good. But the generale consumption of paper is rising in the last years. The per capita consumption of paper, cardboard and carton is higher in Germany than in any other G20 country. The rapidly increasing quantities of packaging in online trade in particular contribute to the high consumption. Paper has a fairly high energy consumption during production. The best way is to reduce our paper usage. When it comes to textile production, we could recycle alt-paper into cellulosic based fiber yarns, like Ioncell from Helsinki is doing.

USED CLOTHING

According to the Association for Textile Recycling, the amount of old textiles collected in Germany is about 750,000 tonnes. 50 per cent of the collected textiles can be reused. These textiles are usually exported.  Another four per cent are further processed into cleaning rags or other recycled products (e.g. sound insulation mats). On the other hand, according to the Federal Association of Consumer Organisations, 1.6 million tonnes of textiles are consumed each year. This corresponds to a per capita consumption of 20 kg.  This means that the Germans have the highest consumption of textiles worldwide. There are different companies working at transorming post-comsumer textile waste into new ones. Evrnu for exemples uses post-consumer cotton garments to produce cellulosic based NuCycl fibres. And Ioncell could do so either. Aquafil (Econyl) uses post-consumer textile waste, to produce nylon 6 fibres. Kleiderly from Berlin transforms old textiles in f.eg. plastic hangers.

COFFEE GROUNDS AND ORANGE SHELLS

In Berlin there are lots of coffee houses which serve fresh brew coffee and also fresh made organe juice. It is possible to use the coffee ground for the production of S.Café (Singtex) nylon or the organge shells could be used to produce a vegan leather or silk alterative.

DOGS HAIR

It is possible to use combed-out undercoat of dogs as wool alternativ in textile production. In Germany, 80 tonnes of dog wool, a high-quality raw material, are thrown away every year. Berlin has many dogs. Modusintarsia creates Chiengora, a dog hair based wool fibre.

CONCLUSION

Germany produces so much waste plastic, paper, used textiles. Before thinking to re-use that waste, we have to think about our consumption habits. First and foremost, our consumption should be mindful. Less consumption, less waste. That should have the greatest effects and is inevitable.

When we look at the type of waste streams in Berlin, we clearly see, that there are enourmous potential to use these waste streams from plastic, alt-paper, used clothes, biobased waste like coffee grounds or organge shells and dog hair as sourcing chance for textile production in urban spaces. In the further areas of berlin corn, hemp, flax sheep wool could be natural sourcing alternatives to. Of course, we would need the appropriate factories in the city. Berlin has the know how and a vital chemical industry as well as recyling facilities to do so.

Sources:

https://textile-network.de/de/Fashion/Von-wegen-Orangenhaut

https://www.evrnu.com/nucycl

 

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https://unifi.com/

https://www.aquafil.com/de/

https://www.aquafil.com/de/sustainability/econyl-garn/

https://www.evrnu.com/nucycl

https://www.remap-berlin.de/blog/zero-waste-blog/97

https://www.umweltbundesamt.de/daten/ressourcen-abfall/verwertung-entsorgung-ausgewaehlter-abfallarten/altpapier

https://www.nabu.de/umwelt-und-ressourcen/abfall-und-recycling/22033.html

https://www.boell.de/sites/default/files/2019-11/Plastikatlas_2019_3._Auflage.pdf

https://www.destatis.de/DE/Presse/Pressemitteilungen/2021/03/PD21_N016_51.html;jsessionid=9C96987F2D86E734055E7F35FFA35CE2.internet741

https://www.bettina-hoffmann.info/de/blog/2019/10/kleine_anfrage_papierverbrauch.php

www.circular.berlin

photo by Jonas Tebbe/unsplash